
2015
11 Nov – Zombie walk down to Base Camp
Wake up at camp 3, feet still numb and concerned.
Planning of the day: all day walk down to base camp. It’s a full day of walking down the mountain, and picking up and carrying all the gear that has been left at various camps. The weather is pristine as usual since the last snow storm early November when we arrived at base camp.
We take our last pictures with Himlung behind us, all the summit team: Chris, Lakpa, Ongshu, Florence and myself. Is time to head down, there is probably 6-8 hours of downhill going from 6200 back down to 4900. I rope in with Florence and Chris and we start to head down. Backpacks are very heavy and lifting them is already an undertaking. Ice axe clipped on the back, all sleeping gear, climbing gear, heavy duty clothing etc.
The view surrounding us is unbelievably beautiful and it gives me the necessary motivation to keep walking. Soon we get to the area where a boulder of ice fell from the hanging glacier a few days ago.
We briefly stop at camp 2 and pick up he remaining gear. My helmet was waiting in the snow clipped to a tent peg. One more piece of gear to carry down.
After the last glacier, we remove the crampons and its walking in steep rocky slopes all the way to the moraine. We un-rope and Chris takes the lead while Florence switches to trekking boots. I follow him down closely all the way to camp 1. It’s probably 1-2pm by now and I am knackered. Another 1 1/2 hours and we should reach the edge of the moraine for the last crossing. I am dreading this moment. Purba meets us on the way down and takes some of our gear, 2-3 kg less is a real treat!
Before we get on the moraine I ask Chris to wait for me for this last stretch as I am getting really tired, my feet are not up to the challenge, they feel better than last night but still totally numb. I am just putting this aside, I need them to keep working until base camp no matter what so I am trying to forget that I am walking down 1300m on frozen feet.
At the moraine we all climb down together and then Chris walks ahead and disappears in the labyrinth of boulders, ice and snow. Florence passes me, slows down to wait for me, nicely hangs around for a while but finally keeps going I am too slow and she needs to get to camp and get some rest, she has been plagued by very little sleep for the past weeks. I slow down as there is no one around anymore to help me if I twist a leg in this field of rocks.
My pace had gone down dramatically, I am now obliterating time and just being extra careful, one step after the other. I get lost in a section of the moraine and climb up to see where I need to go. I am quickly back on track.
It feels endless, the rocks are unstable and each step becomes a close call. Another hour passes and finally I reach the base camp side of the moraine. I was hoping that the sun would still be shining at base camp but it’s 4pm and the sun has just gone behind the surrounding mountains, and as a result my sleeping bag will remain damp for the night. I swear outloud.
I hear some noise and seem to spot Glenn behind a rock leading to the top edge of the moraine. I hear sounds of bell but I know I haven’t lost my mind, it’s Xavier, Junga and Glenn welcoming me back to base camp and congratulating me for the summit success! It’s so intensely good to see them. We parted 36 hours ago and I am so happy to be back with these guys. The whole trip we have been there for each other and developing a new level of friendship and seeing them here waiting for me is amazing.
We walk back together to base camp, I throw my stuff back in my tent and we meet in the mess tent to update each other.
Rojan (cook) and Purba (Head Sherpa) bringing the summit success cake & Nepalese liquor (pix by Florence)
A nice evening of stories told and shared and in bed by 9pm. Tomorrow is our last day at base camp, we are helicoptering back!