Weather: snowstorm We wake up to zero visibility. That’s not good and it means that no Otter ski planes will be able to land today. We hope for a clearing it in the afternoon, but it won’t come today. We want out now that we are at base camp. Easy day in the tent apart […]

Weather: cloudy It’s the long march we are going to walk down all the way to base camp from camp 4. Atmosphere is not great, Abdul and Daniel have turned quiet and distant. I guess we all react differently but it’s important to put things in perspective, we are safe and that’s what matters. Denali […]

(Featured Photo – credits Daniel Forbes: The Crevasse – Bergschrund after the fixed ropes) Weather: -38 night, -30 day As we wake up slowly and desperately wait for the sun to ‘warm our world’ as Kai puts it, we take a look at the summit ridge. It is in the clouds, it looks windy. It […]

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Altitude: from 4900 to 5200 This section is difficult. Ridge is not wide, crampons hit some uncovered rocks and become slippery, some sections have fixed ropes that are hard to clip into with very heavy packs, altitude is rising. All 3 of us are now quiet and fully focused no joking now, it’s a 2-3 […]

Altitude: from 4300 to 4900 / Weather: very cold, cloudy As a team-member of this expedition, I have been spared the back and forth discussion between lead guide Kai Girard and second in command Scott – Patch. It does not mean, however, that I do not know what is going on and that I have […]

(Click the picture to play video blog) Keep in mind that this happens only at high altitude after being bored out of our minds playing the waiting game for summit attempt…why team Shrimp? well actually we needed to find a name to yell ‘Anchor’ and ‘Climbing’ for the fixed ropes section the next day. So […]

May 18 / Weather: storm on mountain top / Altitude: 4300m / Temperature: -15 We are stuck in the tent at camp 3 to wait for better weather. We are getting bored and trying to keep busy by reading our kindles, chatting and listening to music and spending a lot of time in the kitchen […]

May 17 / Weather: cloudy and snowy / Altitude: 4300 -> 4900 -> 4300 We can’t make the summit push for now so instead of staying in camp we have decided to head back up to the col at 4900m where the cache is so we can train and keep in shape and acclimatized. On […]

(Featured picture: large expedition with sleds arriving at Camp 3, Mount Foraker in the background) May 16 / Weather: high pressure but storm coming   The forecast announces a low pressure system and snowstorm from Wednesday so guides decide to change plans, we won’t go up to high camp today. We are going to wait […]