Weather: overcast and snow

We carry the loads in order to cache after windy corner planning for our move to camp 3.

The first hill right out of camp, motorcycle hill, goes straight up, no switchbacks. It makes it a bit faster but also more difficult. The final section has a bunch of crevasses and with many people climbing up and sometimes trying to pass, I do not have a safe feeling.

We leave one of our ski poles before hitting squirrel hill and take out our ice axes. The slope is steep and a fall would have high consequences. Some people try to pass and I try, at times, to keep the space closed so they cannot pass us uphill and endanger us if they fall, as they could carry our rope with them.

It’s all iced and quite scary at times. Crampons bite but it’s all about trust in your equipment. We arrive at windy corner and it’s very windy and cold. We add layers of clothing, put on helmets and are on our way. It’s very icy, almost bare blue ice. Usually windy corner is not this bad. We must have protection placed. Kai puts 2 snow pickets in the ice after the ice screws fail to bite into the ice. This way we can move forward safely. Some other climbers are stuck below us and panic with their sleds pulling them downhill on the ice. This is the section where another rescue has been taking place a Few days ago, 2 climbers slid, fell and ended up in a crevasse with broken ribs unable to move for 3 days as the rescue helicopter could not get to them in the bad weather.