We have been constantly listening to the weather, trying to find the right window for a final summit push. It is a game between relying on the forecast – which has proven wrong almost every day since we arrived – and looking at the sky and relying on Kai’s instinct in terms of window. A 1-2 day window would be enough, we just need enough time to reach camp 4 (6hrs), time to do the summit push (12 hrs), and time to come down to camp 3 before the storm (3hrs). We don’t want to be stuck at camp 4 for days, it is extreme altitude (5200 meters), we have limited food supplies that we can carry up there and the winds are able to rip your tent off the mountain at times. Not to mention it is often brutally cold, easily -40C.

Leaving camp 3 in the morning, we are off at 11am our packs filled with only the minimum gear for the final push to camp 4 and summit attempt. No luxuries anymore, no toiletries, no electronics, no change of clothes, all our warm layers of course and summit specific gear.

It’s  a tough push, we don’t rest much on the way there. We are stuck almost 2 hours on the fixed-lines behind a group of eastern europeans, who are simply too slow. It is tiring to be on a 60 degree slope that long, ankles start to hurt, waist is painful due to the harness digging in the skin when you rest with a 30kg pack pulling you back.

Once through the fixed ropes, we make a swift transition to the ridge. The wind is blowing and at times I need to kneel down and dig my ice-axe in order to feel safe. The drops on either sides are incredible. Of course, all these rocks, ice, snow and drops make for an amazing view on the Alaska ridge.

6 hours 45 later, we reach camp 4. Self care (drinking, eating, getting warm, wearing big puffy and big gloves) before starting the common work: building a platform for the tent, setting up the tent, boiling water, building a wall around the tent with snow blocks to protect from winds. The polish team arrives at camp 4 1h30 later.

When all done, we enter the tent not to come out until the next morning. We are tired, hungry but happy and start discussing the summit plans. I take out the garmin in reach and message Sarah our location on the mountain. The night comes slowly and lasts for 2 hours only, we sleep and try to recover.