May 8
Altitude: 2300 to 3300 meters

 

(My new Garmin Fenix 5X and its maps function do a great job telling me that I am right on the West Buttress path to the top of Denali – not that I needed confirmation but its fun to see how technology has become incredibly precise and reliable for even the harshest environments)

We have been warned, today is going to be tough. First we need to break camp, allocate the common gear, pack, rope up and head out. It seems straight forward but all together it takes 3 hours to do all this, wake up at 7 and leave at 10.

First 650 meters ascent to cache is ok, we are making good progress, but the snowstorm is soon upon us. We pick up ice saws (to cut snow blocks at hire camps where we will need to build snow walls to protect from the artic winds) a few shovels and we are off for the second part of the day. During one of the short breaks (pix below), a small bird lands on my sled, it is very cute but does not belong here, it must have been lost in colds winds and end up on the glacier at high altitude. As most of its kind, it will die in the next 1 or 2 days from extreme cold and exhaustion. It couldn’t find its way out of Denali, Talkeetna is much too far for him to garner the energy to fly out.

The second part of the day is 2 1/2 hours of pure uphill climbing in worsening snowstorm until we get to camp 2, lying between 3 ice falls and just before the famous ‘motorcycle hill’, which will be our next climb. We are almost breaking trial in deep powder dragging the sleds, its exhausting – taking pictures is the least of my concerns.

After an exhausting day, 5 minutes rest and back to work, we need to build camp: probe the site for crevasses and guarantee safety of our chosen location first, then we dig a level platform in the snow to put up the tents, it’s shovel madness for the next 2 hours. There is a bit of tension for the first time between Pat, Xavier and I. We don’t all agree on how to set the tent and the angle. True, it’s very important as this is our home for the next 3 days but it’s cold, we are exhausted, it’s pouring down with snow, things are getting wet. During those times strong friendship, respect of others and altruism are paramount. We need to think of the group first and not of our personal comfort. We pull together quickly and move on.

Gear is disappearing under the constant fresh snow, it’s easy to loose food, ice axes or other gear. 3 tents are up, then kitchen tent, bathroom.

We are knackered, water is boiling, dinner is cooking, we gather in the kitchen tent. Cracking jokes with mouthfuls of macaroni and cheese. Briefing of the next day which will turn out to be totally different than the original plan.